The holiday season in Buenos Aires is a blast, it’s the start of summer, after all. But travelers need to plan ahead, especially those arriving on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, New Year’s Eve, or New Year’s Day. I wrote about Christmas in Buenos Aires last year, so let’s talk New Year’s this time.
My friends are renting out their apartment from Dec. 20 – Jan. 3 here in San Telmo. Check out their listing on AirBnB.
New Year’s Eve in Buenos Aires
First off, wear white. It’s summer here and tradition calls for white. But the very best advice I can give you for New Year’s Eve is to stay in the barrio (neighborhood). Transportation is the biggest challenge. Buses will run, but you could find yourself waiting for an hour or more for your bus to pass. Taxis? Forget about it. The ones you see will all be occupied or on their way to pick up another passenger. Last year I tried to reserve one ahead of time for a couple that was checking out on Jan. 1 and was told that no taxis would be running until 8am. You have to try your luck with the ones you find on the street.
So, you’re staying in the barrio, but you want to dine out. Reserve now. It’s common here for restaurants to offer up a special menu for New Year’s Eve with a very special price, too. Though you will find some that don’t charge your first born child for the pleasure of bringing in the New Year with them. If you’re in San Telmo, some swanky, fine-dining options are Chila and La Vinería de Gualterio Bolívar. Our favorite restaurant in San Telmo is Cafe San Juan, and next would be Caseros. All great options for a special dinner.
You might not want your asado to look like this, but it makes for a pretty picture.
A better idea for those on a budget would be to stay in and cook . If you’re staying in a vacation rental, take advantage of the kitchen or the parilla, if you have one. Then, after dinner, head over to Puerto Madero for some fireworks and then come back to Plaza Dorrego for the party.
Ni el Loro Queda
Me: “Naty, I want to write a post about New Year’s in Buenos Aires.”
Naty: ”Ni el loro queda.” (translation, ”Not even the parrot sticks around.”)
It’s true. The difference between Christmas and New Year’s in Buenos Aires is that by New Year’s Eve, lots of porteños (BA locals) are already at the beach. The city is half full. That doesn’t mean it’s not fun, on the contrary. It’s fantastic. Less traffic, more low-key, great photography opportunities, and there’s still plenty to do. Plus, in January the city puts on an awesome outdoor festival La Ciudad al Aire Libre. It’s my second favorite month of the year here (November is my favorite!).
John and Angela in Puerto Madero on New Year's Eve
Advice for New Year’s Day in Buenos Aires
- Sleep late, very late.
- If you can’t sleep late, go to church. It’s a cultural experience. And since it’s both a Sunday and New Year’s Day (i.e. most things are going to be closed), get cultural. Oh, and if you’re hungover, go to communion. The wine could take the edge off.
- Rent a bike. Ok, I’m not sure the bike rentals will be open, but you could rent it on Saturday for all of Sunday too and ride all over the city trafficless.
- Walk the empty streets with your camera, but keep your camera in your bag unless you’re taking a photo. Empty streets are popular with thieves and cameras and cell phones are hot items.
- Head to a park or the Nature Reserve. It’s summer. Work on your tan. Read a book. Stare out at the river. Make your list of New Year’s resolutions.
- Go to the San Telmo street fair. There will probably be fewer vendors, but there will be antiques vendors, artisans, street performers, and street food. What a great way to start the year!
Other suggestions I haven’t thought of? Add them below, please. Thanks.
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