Get out your blue and white (celeste y blanca) flags, it’s World Cup time! Actually, it feels like we’ve been surrounded in blue and white for months now since just a few weeks ago Argentina celebrated its 200th anniversary. There are some amazing photos here and here and here of the light shows on buildings, the parades, and the reopening of Teatro Colon, which has been closed since late 2006. The Bicentennial celebrations brought a reported 6 million flag-clad people to the city.

Where to Watch World Cup Matches

The crowds have left but the party is still going on. The government of the city of Buenos Aires called my home phone yesterday to let me know that there would be a huge screen in Plaza San Martin broadcasting the World Cup matches. Can you believe that? They call you at home. Then my buddy Naty called and told me that if I need to buy anything or have any work done over the next month, I should forget about it. No one will be working since the games will be during the day. Vamos, Argentina!

If you’d rather be inside, there’s a sports bar in Recoleta called Casa Bar that serves delicious buffalo wings and hamburgers. And if soccer isn’t your thing, Casa Bar also broadcasts the NBA finals. Oh, and there’s another advantage to going to Casa Bar. They have the widest variety of booze around. They even have Kettel One vodka.

Great Quilmes Commercials

With all these celebrations here in Argentina, we’re also getting some fantastic commercials. This first one is about the Bicentennial. Argentina’s most famous actor, Ricardo Darín (who starred in this year’s Academy Award winning El Segreto de sus Ojos) tells the story of Argentina’s most famous beer, Quilmes (with English subtitles).

Quilmes may not make great beer, but they definitely produce great commercials. And those poster ads from the 40′s. I’ll be out looking for them in San Telmo’s antique fair. Here’s one of the most famous Quilmes ads for the World Cup (with English subtitles).

Talk about a great way to learn something about Argentinean culture. These ads are sooooo Argentine. We’ll add more this week because they’re just too much fun to stop at one or two.

Do you guys know of any other places to watch World Cup matches?

Update: We weren’t able to get tickets at the stadium. The game was canceled on Sunday and rescheduled for Thursday, March 25. Boca Juniors won 2 – 0!

The Boca vs. River game, el superclasico, is this Sunday and it’s being played at the Boca stadium, La Bombonera. I’m not a big sports fan, but we saw the Boca vs. Racing game two weeks ago and it was thrilling. Plus, the Boca vs. River rivalry is one of the greatest in the world. It’s even listed in the 50 sporting things you must do before you die by The Observer. And not just listed, it’s first on the list!

So, we’re going to try to go. Everyone says that you absolutely cannot get tickets at the stadium on game day. We’re going to try because a lot of people told us the same thing two weeks ago, and we did get tickets for less than a third of what online retailers were asking for.

I’m a Boca fan because Boca represents the working class and I like that. Plus, we live in San Telmo, so Boca is our neighbor.

First, some terminology.

Hincha and Hinchada

Hincha means fan. Hinchada means a group of fans. And boy, Boca’s hinchada is out of this world. You’ll often hear people say “soy de Boca,” or “soy hincha de Boca.” When the whole group is together, waving flags and singing in unison, that’s the hinchada.

Los Xeneizes, the greatest fans in the world.

Other names that Boca fans go by are los xeneizes, or the Genovese after the Italian immigrants that lived in La Boca and founded the team, and la doce, or number 12 for the 12th player. Fans from other teams call Boca fans los bosteros, or manure handlers.  Sometimes los xeneizes also call themselves los bosteros.

Canticos de Boca or Boca Chants

I was dying to chant along with the hinchada,  but I couldn’t figure out what they were saying. I’ve collected the chants I heard the most at the game here. Click on title to hear the chant, and open our list of the lyrics and their English translations in a new window to read along as you listen. You might even want to print them out to take with you to the game.

Dale Bo’ – Let’s Go Bo’ (Bo’ is short for Boca)- If you just want to learn one chant, this is the one to learn. Basically, it ends every chant they have.

Hinchada Hay Una Sola – Group of Fans, There’s Only One – Lots of people agree that these are the greatest fans in the world. I’m from Louisiana, home of the Saints (Who Dat?) and LSU and even I’ve never seen anything like the Boca fans.

Vamos Los Xeneizes Vamos A Ganar – Come On Boca Fans, We’re Gonna Win – So I mentioned above that los xeneizes refers to the group of Genovese immigrants that founded the team, but more specifically, Xena is Genova in the Genovese dialect, so xeneizes is people from Genova.

Chants That Mention River

River fans are called las gallinas by Boca fans. Basically, they’re saying that River fans are chickens, but gallina actually means hen. Same idea, but I guess for these guys, being called a hen is worse than being called a chicken. River fans call themselves los millionarios. No explanation needed.

River, Compadre – River, Man – Here we go with the lyrics that aren’t kid-friendly. What rhymes with compadre? You’ll have to listen to find out.

El Que No Salta Es Una Gallina – Whoever Doesn’t Jump Is a Chicken – We used to dare other kids by calling them chicken. How did chickens get such a bad reputation? If you’re sitting in the Boca section and they start this one, you might want to start jumping.

Todas Las Gallinas Son Asi – That’s How Chickens Are -  I like this one because it’s sums up what’s great about Boca fans. In essence it says that if River fans aren’t winning, they don’t go to the games, but Boca fans always support their team.

Lyrics and their English translations in .pdf format. If you want to listen to more chants, there’s a longer list at Alternative Boquense (Boquense means someone from La Boca) or try this list on Taringa.

The azul y oro flag covers the hinchada.

Azul y Oro

The story behind the colors of the team is one of my favorite parts of the history of Boca Juniors. Boca’s first jerseys were pink, not very tough. Since it was founded by workers in La Boca, the port of the city of Buenos Aires, the founders decided that they would take the colors of the first ship to enter the port after their meeting discussing the colors. The first ship was Swedish, hence blue and gold, or azul y oro. Way better than pink!

What to know more… check out these sites.

• All You Need To Know About Boca Juniors
• Boca Juniors on Wikipedia
• Football Rivalries on Wikipedia
• Francisco Gregoric’s Boca Page
• Footballing World’s Short History of Boca
• Brandan BuenosAyres’ Tale of Sitting in the Middle of the Hinchada

Hey Boca fans, did I miss any of the must-know chants?

Research buying tickets to a Boca Juniors game on the Internet and you’d think the only way to do it is 1) show up an hour or so before hand to buy them on the street and just hope that you aren’t sold fake tickets, 2) buy really expensive tickets with a transfer from your hotel and a guide that explains the game to you, 3) know someone who works for a multinational that has season tickets they aren’t using and get lucky.

We’d been wanting to go to a Boca game at La Bombonera, Boca’s famous stadium, for some time, so when four San Telmo Lofters also wanted to go, we decided it was time to figure it out once and for all. In this video shot at the Boca-Racing match, I’ll tell you how to get tickets at the regular price and show you footage of the game and the amazing fans. The key points are also outlined here below.

Two Options for Advanced Ticket Purchases

There are ways to get tickets in advance, but both options seemed really expensive to us. Still, some people might prefer the security of buying tickets ahead of time and being escorted to and from the stadium.

1. Boca Experience – The Boca Juniors website implies that the only way tourists can purchase tickets is through Boca Experience. The prices range from $150 US to $400 US (for River-Boca games). The Boca-Racing game that we attended would have cost us $200 US each if we’d purchased through Boca Experience.
2. Football Passion – I found these guys through their Facebook page and contacted them to see what their offers were. They have much better prices than Boca Experience, ranging from 250 – 430 pesos. But we really didn’t want a transfer and guide for the whole game. (*Below a commenter has complained about their service.)

Certain there had to be another way, we asked around and found out how the locals do it.

Climbing to our seats.

How Boca Fans Get Tickets

Ticket to Boca - Racing

Tickets to the game go on sale on the morning of game day. In our case, for a 7:00 PM game, the ticket office opened at 10:00 AM and we were told to get there about an hour early. We only got there 30 minutes early, so the cheapest tickets (those for 90 pesos) were already sold out. Also, each person is only allowed to buy two tickets, so if there are six people total going to the game, three people need to go to the ticket office.

Boca was playing Racing so the tickets weren’t as sought after as those for a Boca-River match. The line to buy tickets was only about 30 minutes long.

Even in defeat, Boca's fans rock on.

Our tickets cost 180 pesos and we were in Platea Media, Sector D (map of stadium seating). These same tickets would have cost 430 pesos with Football Passion. I loved our seats because we were right next to the popular section where Boca’s famous fans were. It was thrilling.

Map to Boca Ticket Office

The ticket office is located on the corner of Palos and Villafañe, right down the road from La Bombonera. It’s only about 12 blocks away from us (a 15-minute walk or 5-minute cab ride).

Our Day at La Bombonera

The Boca Juniors vs. River Plate game is in two weeks. We’ll head to La Bombonera again to see if tickets can be purchased on game day, how early we need to get there, and what the tickets cost.

Have you guys ever been to a game at La Bombonera? How did you get your tickets?

What I love about San Telmo…..

I‘ve been living in San Telmo for about a year now, but I’ve been visiting since 2002. Seriously, since 2002. It’s changed a lot, of course. And while a lot of people lament the changes, I adore them. I feel that we’ve got the perfect combination of past and present in this barrio. So, here goes my shot at convincing you, too, that this is the BEST neighborhood in Buenos Aires.

El Mercado de San Telmo

I love the market. The fresh produce and the amazing butchers. I love the fact that they know my name and they know how I like my bananas (I don’t like them too green) and how I like my rib-eye cut (thicker than Argentinians like). I love that I can always find cilantro and fresh mint there and I love the havas (fava beans) when they’re in season.

The Architecture of San Telmo

I love the architecture. It feels a lot like New Orleans to me. Sometimes as you walk along the cobblestones streets of the neighborhood you’ll get the chance to peek into a conventillo (tenement). It’s like getting a glimpse of the past. You can imagine what this building was like some 100 years ago when the aristocrats abandoned their beautiful mansions and moved up north to get away from the yellow fever and cholera outbreak.

San Telmo's Varied Restaurants

I love the variety of restaurants. There’s no doubt that San Telmo is not the area for fine dining. Palermo has more restaurants that fall in this category than San Telmo does. But I love that I can find really traditional restaurants and bars along with more modern, fancy ones. What’s more, the modern restaurants, while not as numerous as in other neighborhoods, are some of the best in the city.

Sundays in San Telmo

I love the street fair. Street fairs and street food are right up my alley. On Sunday, the entire neighborhood becomes a massive street fair. There are Mexican guys selling burritos wrapped in aluminum foil, housewives selling their empanadas and other baked goods, people with citrus juicers selling fresh squeezed orange juice. I love to see how people invent jobs for themselves. There’s the guy who sells “tomates locos,” small rubber tomatoes filled with silicon that splatter when you throw them on a flat surface. And the guy who stands in a doorway and belts out tango tunes a cappella. There are the ladies that sell their knitted items or hand-painted aprons. And there are the antique vendors whose stands never look bare. They sit there all day sipping mate and talking to locals and foreigners as they sell some great, some cheesy, antiques.

The Ecological Reserve, 6 Blocks Away

I love the nature reserve. When you live in a city this size, you need to see green. The Reserva is phenomenal. Whether I head over there with a book or with my running shoes, the views of the river and little hidden corners are spectacular.

Plaza Dorrego: The Heart of San Telmo

I love Plaza Dorrego pretty much all the time. It’s best on sunny afternoons with a cold beer in hand. But I also love to sit along the wall in the evening to watch who’s coming and going or chat with the hippie vendors. When the tango dancers begin, you hope that they’ll save their tips to buy a better sound system. Scratchy tango with blown out amplifiers is only cool for about one song.

Siesta or Mate.... Take it Slow

I love that they still take siesta and regular business hours change for each place. I’ve been living here for close to a year now and each time I head out I feel like there’s some store or bar or restaurant or tailor or upholsterer that I’ve never noticed before. Part of that is because the neighborhood is changing quickly. New places are opening up weekly, and, luckily, not too many of them are chains.

Mostly, I love the authenticity of San Telmo.

If you’ve been here, what do you love about San Telmo that I forgot (or that I didn’t forget)?

It’s a rainy Monday in Buenos Aires. Luckily, there’s still plenty to do. Here’s our list of “Rainy Day Activities.” Many of these activities are the sort of luxuries I don’t usually allow myself when traveling since I’m on a budget. But a little treat on a rainy day is always welcome. Some of the others are free or cheap, for those counting their pesos.

1. Catch a Movie
   I love watching movies in other countries. Moviegoers around the world have different customs. For one thing, you can order your popcorn (popchocle) either sweet (dulce) or salty (salado) and you can also have a beer with it. But the main reason I like seeing movies in other countries is because our culture determines how we react, or don’t react, to different parts of the story.  I’ve often found myself laughing out loud when everyone else is silent and scratching my head when the people next to me are cracking up. You can find a list of cinemas in Buenos Aires at Time Out Buenos Aires.Another reason to go to the movies is that it’s a great way to practice your Spanish (castellano). If the movie is in English, it’s typically subtitled in Spanish. It’s two hours of entertainment and a language lesson all in one. And if you really want to test your language skills, check out a local film.
2. Visit the MALBA
   Museums sometimes make me sleepy. I think the maximum amount of time I can spend looking at art is about two hours. This is why I love the MALBA (Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires). The collection is just the right size for me. After wandering through the rooms, I could have still seen another room or tow. I wanted more because I got to see works from artists I’ve long admired like Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera and because I’d never even heard of some of the other artists like Antonio Berni, Jorge de la Vega, Joaquin Torres-Garcia (from Uruguay). The size of the collection meant that I had the time to stay, observe, take in, and enjoy the works without rushing to the next room because my niece was going to run out of steam. Even my 15-year-old niece loved the art.
   

   The MALBA Museum in Buenos Aires

   She did run out of steam before the rest of us. So, she went to the cafe to catch up on her summer reading. We found her there pretending to be a local and sipping hot chocolate. She couldn’t stop talking about how it was the best hot chocolate she’d ever had in her life. Then she begged us to stay there for lunch.

   

   Lunch at Cafe des Arts

   I was skeptical because museum food is often touristy and, well, bad. Not the Cafe des Arts. The chef, Jean Paul Bondoux, is from Bourgogne in France. Not suprisingly, every plate was fantastic. From the sandwiches with fresh salad and crisp french fries to the plate of pasta with mushrooms. It was all delicious.

   

   Arab Lamb Sandwich

   

   Croque Monsieur at Cafe des Arts

   

   Penne con Funghi

   The museum is open from noon to 8PM, Thursday to Sunday and from noon to 9PM on Wednesdays when entrance to the museum is free (they ask for a 5 peso donation). Otherwise, it costs 15 pesos to enter. MALBA is closed on Tuesdays. From Thursday to Sunday, MALBAcine shows artsy films starting at 2PM until midnight most days.

3. Hit the Mall
   I’m not much of a shopper, but shopping in Buenos Aires is a cultural experience and I’m all for cultural experiences. If it’s raining outside, you’ll probably want to take shelter in one of the many shopping centers. Here are the two I’d go to because you could spend the whole day there even if you don’t like to shop.
   I’d probably start at Galerias Pacifico because the turn-of-the-century building is gorgeous. The frescoes on the ceiling were painted by five Argentinean muralists.
   

   Fountain at Galerias Pacifico, by lrargerich on Flickr

   You can sit in the cafe down near the fountain and people-watch all afternoon, but the main reason I’d choose this shopping center is because on the top floor you’ll find the Centro Cultural Borges. There are art exhibits, live performances of music and dance, and showings of independent films. It’s open from 10AM to 9PM, Monday to Saturday and from noon to 9PM on Sundays. Tickets cost 10 pesos.

   The second shopping center I want to mention is Abasto. While I would prefer to go on a sunny day so that I could wander the streets of nearby Once, if you’re short on time and it’s raining, Abasto is a great option. I like Once, the nearby barrio, because it reminds me of the huge market in Cairo, although it looks nothing like it. But there are blocks devoted to textiles, others devoted to electronics, or to houseware, or to handbags. It’s lively haggling and full of energy. And there are some great Jewish delis in the neighborhood (try the empanadas arabes). Ok, so now that I’ve sold you on Once, let me sell you on Abasto.

   

   Abasto at Night, by Concepciones Relativistas on Flickr

   First off, you’d likely be the only tourist in the mall. Secondly, the building is amazing. Abasto is in the old tango district of Buenos Aires and the shopping center is housed in the old market, El Mercado de Abasto. It’s a very creative way to preserve old buildings whose purpose needs to be reinvented.

   

   Abasto, by puroticoricoon Flickr

   Years ago you’d find produce, meats, and flowers. Today, in this beautiful example of Art Deco architecture from the 1930s, you can find Nike, Puma, and many other brands. There are over 200 stores, likely the most diverse shopping center in the city, so there’s something for everyone. For more on the history of the area and the building, read the Buenos Aires Argentina Guide.

4. Get Pampered
   Well, why not? I’m the kind of person who puts off pampering myself. I say I’ll go, but I really only treat myself when someone else gifts it to me. That said, the only massage I’ve had in Buenos Aires was at Valle Tierra (it was a gift from my swamp sister, Natalia). The massage was excellent. I also liked the decor. It was calming, but not sterile. The furniture, rugs, and pieces of art come from the northern regions of Argentina (think Santa Fe, New Mexico). Lots of earthy tones.

   A couple the stayed with us a few weeks ago on their honeymoon spent a day at AquaVita. After months of planning the wedding and a weekend of serious celebration, a spa was what they needed. They had very good things to say about AquaVita. But I found a review from the Times Online where a commenter had a less favorable opinion. Since the complaint was about the customer service, and since I know that the idea of customer service here in Argentina is very different from the US and the UK, I’d take that complaint with a grain of salt. Or better. If you’re going to a spa, focus on the facilities and the quality of the massages. Ignore the service because you may not be able to relax unless you do.

5. Have a Tea Party
   Indulge yourself at the Alvear Palace Hotel, one of Buenos Aires’ most beautiful hotels, for afternoon tea. this is a seriously decadent, albeit hoity-toity, experience. L’Orangerie is the restaurant in the hotel that serves high tea. Rule #1: ignore the snobby socialites looking at you because you are clearly nobody they recognize as important (besides, you are important, they just don’t know it). However, if fitting in matters to you, get dressed up and be sure to wear your pearls. Rule #2: only order one full tea for three or fewer people. One is plenty for three people.
   

   The Spread

   Rule #3: take your time. Just when you think they’ve brought all the goodies to the table and you’ve stuffed yourself full, out comes another plate.

   

   And then there's the cake

6. Browse Bookshelves
7. I love books. My sister’s attic is full of boxes of books I just can’t part with. One day she’s going to make me decide. To keep my book collection manageable, I now check the book out thoroughly before buying it.  I can spend hours browsing the bookshelves, flipping the pages, asking myself if I can live without this book. My favorite bookstores for a rainy afternoon are El Ateneo, in Barrio Norte/Recoleta, and Boutique del Libro, in Palermo. They offer very different experiences.

   El Ateneo is the most beautiful bookstore in the world. I’m not exaggerating. They took an old theater where tango was once danced and turned it into a massive bookstore, leaving the balconies, the stage, the lighting for the most part, and the magic.

   

   El Ateneo Bookstore in Recoleta, by longhorndave on Flickr

   You can have a coffee or tea at the cafe on the stage. I don’t recommend ordering food though. It’s mediocre, and that’s being kind. Check out Argentina’s Travel Guide’s write up on El Ateneo (by the way, Argentina’s Travel Guide also has a pocket guide BA’s bookstores in .pdf format which you can download here).

   If you’re in a more chill mood and if you’re hungry, I’d recommend el Boutique del Libro. The food is much better and it has a grab-a-book-and-a-cup-of-coffee atmosphere.

   

   Boutique del Libro on Thames in Palermo

   Plus, they’re usually playing great music. In fact, if you hear something you like, just ask the cashier in the music department what’s playing. The music selection isn’t large, but it is good. I could spend all afternoon here.

So, what are your favorite rainy day activities in Buenos Aires? Did we miss something? I’m sure we did.

Rain and more rain. We didn’t get to go to La Reserva this weekend. Why not write about it?

So, John and I have been living in San Telmo for about a month now and after falling in love with the architecture, the fabulous market (where they even have cilantro and mint ALL THE TIME!), the street vendors and musicians, the dark corners, the fancy and not-so-fancy restaurants, a pretty good Middle Eastern restaurant (which we’ll have to write about some other time), what’s really sold us on San Telmo after two years in Palermo is La Reserva.

There are tons of beautiful parks in Buenos Aires, but La Reserva is in a league of its own. Oddly, views of the river are fairly rare in the city. That alone is reason enough to love La Reserva (images here). Trek around the over 5-mile trail (map here) on foot or bike, or pack a picnic with goodies from San Telmo’s market or bakeries and watch the cargo ships go by. There are plenty of spots along the trail with benches, picnic tables, or rocky shores where you can be alone, another rare event in this immense city.

La Reserva is closed on Mondays and also closed during and after big rainstorms. It opens at 8:00 AM and closes at 6:00 PM in winter and 7:00 PM in summer.

Where do you take a newcomer to Buenos Aires to show him the grittier, more rustic, and way romantic side of the music I so love? La Peña del Colorado of course (we mentioned it in our list of Ten Things to Do in Buenos Aires). The live shows are great, but I also recommend staying later to see the spontaneous guitarists and drunken singers that stick around until dawn. Plan for a late night.

Last Friday we watched La Jury sing her heart out for over two hours. La Jury, whose real name is Luciana, is from Buenos Aires. She sings in the style called “canto criollo.” Here are the names of a few famous criollo singers from Chile, Argentina, and Mexico to help you get familiarized with the style should you want to study up on the style before getting here (Violeta Parra, Mercedes Sosa, Lhasa del Sela, Chango Rodriguez, Oscar Valles, Chavela Vargas).

At first, La Jury was accompanied by Carlos Delgado on guitar and vocals.

Midway through her performance, master guitarist, Carlos Moscardini, joined her. Amazing. Truly amazing.

My memory stick was full, which was a total bummer because Carlos Moscardini’s guitar playing coupled with La Jury’s amazing pipes was truly spectacular. But here is Carlos Moscardini on guitar. Wow!

La Peña del Colorado is located in Palermo/Barrio Norte on Guemes, 3657. Call for a reservation and ask for a table close to the stage. The show was scheduled to start at 10:00 but really began closer to 10:30 (as is to be expected in Argentina). It cost 25 pesos for the show, and we had some dinner, too. Now, let me say that I would not go to La Peña del Colorado for sophisticated dishes or the best of Buenos Aires (here’s the menu). But I love that it is so very typical. Typical parrilla fare. Very good empanadas salteñas. Yummy casseroles of pumpkin with quinoa and goat cheese. Traditional guisos or locro. Tablas of cheese, meats and olives. It’s not creative; it’s traditional. As it should be.

If you really want to do things the way the locals do, order a pinguino instead of a regular bottle of wine and ask for a bottle of soda to go with it. The pinguino is actually the shape of the pitcher that the house wine is served in. Because it’s not the greatest quality wine, Argentines often add a bit of soda to it. It’s like a sangria without the goodies. If you’re picky about wine, you might want to get a regular bottle first to have with your food and then switch over to the pinguino when your taste buds don’t care anymore.

The 115th Argentine Open Polo Championship is underway in Palermo. This is one of the oldest and most well respected tournaments in the world with some of the very best polo players. The matches are held on Saturdays and Sundays at 3:00 and 5:30 pm.

There are two more weeks left, so get your tickets and spend the day in the sun hobnobbing with the hordes of socialites.

We’re back. After a very long hiatus, mostly due to vacationing (check out my photos of Hawaii), somewhat due to work, and greatly due to my holding my breath until Obama got elected, we’re back to blogging. And it’s just in time really. My favorite night of the year is coming up. La Noche de los Museos (The Night of the Museums).

That’s right, this Saturday, Nov. 15, the museums of Buenos Aires (and many other cities around the world, will be open from 7:00 pm – 2:00 am. It’s not just that visiting a museum after dark is fun, nor is it just that the museums are all free, nor is it that the city designates certain bus routes devoted to getting you from one museum to another, nor is it that the buses are also free. No, it’s that there’s champagne and music and dance and theater and really cool people and, of course, amazing art. Talk about a little slice of heaven.

So, how does it work? Well, you need a plan. There are 120 museums and galleries participating this year, so choose which ones you want to go to based somewhat on their vicinity to one another. If you’re familiar with the major museums, try those in places like Barracas, Boedo, Mataderos, or Caballito. There’s a list of possible itineraries to consider on the website.

How does one get around? Well, the city has doubled the number of buses running on the following lines: 29, 64, 78, 80, 87, 92, 100, 111, 127, 130, and 134. But make sure you print out your pass (Pase Libre) and carry it with you for free transport on these bus lines from 6:00 pm – 3:00 am.

My personal advice is to steer clear of the big guys like MALBA. There are too many people so you’ll spend the whole night waiting in line just to get in. Plus, the MALBA is free on Wednesdays anyway. Find an area with several smaller museums close enough to walk from one to the other. Then take a bus to another area that also has several museums you haven’t visited. Go with some friends and wear comfortable shoes.

P.S. La Noche de los Museos actually marks the beginning of my third year in Buenos Aires and the anniversary of the night I met the other two members of the San Telmo Loft trio, Natalia and Gonzalo. Two years ago, I met Naty and Gonzalo through a friend. They invited me to join them that night. We started at the Fragata Sarmiento in Puerto Madero. And many blisters later we ended up eating an asado in Belgrano after having visited the Casa de Yrurtia and Museo de Arte Español Enrique Larreta. We saw a live rock band, live tango dancers, a theater performance, a ton of history, amazing architecture, fabulous pieces of art, and a good bit of the city along the way. Now that’s how I like to spend a Saturday night!

I should begin by pointing out that I don’t know how to dance tango. I think it’s amazing though and I’d love to learn. So when my mom and niece were coming to visit, I decided it was time to take a couple of classes with people who know as little as I do and with whom I have no problem looking like a fool.

Trying to decide where to take tango classes in Buenos Aires is about is no easy task. I asked everyone I know who’s in the tango world and there was no consensus. A lot of people recommended La Viruta, the massive milonga in Palermo, but I had heard the classes at La Viruta were very crowded and I also knew that it attracts a younger group of people. Worried my mom might feel out of place and that we wouldn’t get any one-on-one attention from the instructors, I looked for something smaller. Tango Brujo was recommended in a discussion on Couchsurfing. And since I think the crowd over at Couchsurfers is pretty cool (read an earlier post about this project here), it sounded right for us, too.

Mom & Jordan on Stairs at Tango Brujo

Tango Brujo is housed in a beautifully renovated building on Esmeralda in downtown Buenos Aires. There’s a gorgeous shop on the ground floor. The shoes and clothes are enough to make anyone want to become a tango aficionado. Unbelievably cool stuff! Head upstairs for the cozy dance studio.

They offer classes for all levels and throughout the week, which makes planning a lot easier. We took two: Introduction to Tango, and the Beginners and Intermediate. What I liked about our classes at Tango Brujo was that there weren’t too many people and yet there were enough of us to change partners and get in a good bit of practice.

The Dance Floor

The classes were in English and Spanish and the instructors were excellent. They were great at figuring out how quickly they could move on to the next step, who needed a bit of individualized attention, and making sure everyone was dancing even though there were more women than men and pairing people up was sometimes hard to do.

Tango is as hard as I’ve always heard it was to learn. The problem for my mom, my niece and me was that in Louisiana we dance to Cajun or Zydeco music. It’s fast and loose. Hips move and bodies swing in Louisiana. By the end of the class, we’d learned to keep our hips still and wait for the guy to let us know what was coming. But sometimes it felt like I had to wait for an eternity and then I realized… that’s it. It’s that longing and resistance between the two that creates the mood.

An ex-boyfriend once told me I’d never be able to learn tango because I wouldn’t be able to let the guy lead (he was pretty mad at me when he said that). He may have been right, but now that I saw how that anticipation of the guy’s lead is how the couple manages to feel each other and know what’s coming without having to look at their feet or even at each other’s eyes and without their bodies even touching, I’m much more interested in trying to follow.

Here’s a short video of our first instructors, Pablo and Anita, at the end of the class showing us the steps we learned.

The classes cost 15 pesos per person. There’s a complete schedule on the beautiful Tango Brujo website.